Albuquerque - Category of Backgroud

Sprawling at the heart of New Mexico, where the main eastwest road and rail routes cross both the Rio Grande and the old road south to Mexico, ALBUQUERQUE is, with half a million people, the state's only major metropolis. Though many tourists dash straight from the airport up to Santa Fe, without a thought for Albuquerque, the " Duke City " has a good deal going for it. Like Phoenix, it's grown a bit too fast for comfort in the last fifty years, but the original Hispanic settlement is still discernible at its core, and its diverse, cosmopolitan population gives it a rare cultural vibrancy. Even if its architecture is often uninspired, the setting is magnificent, sandwiched between the Rio Grande lined by stately cottonwoods and the dramatic, glowing Sandia Mountains . Specific highlights for visitors include the intact Spanish plaza , the neon-lit Route 66 frontage of Central Avenue and the excellent Indian Pueblo Cultural Center ; while every October Albuquerque hosts the nation's largest hot-air balloon rally, attracting upward of 100,000 people to its mass ascensions.

Albuquerque's International Sunport is four miles southeast of downtown. All the major car rental chains have outlets here, while a taxi into town with the Albuquerque Cab Co. (tel 505/883-4888) costs around $10, and Airport Express (tel 505/765-1234) runs door-to-door shuttles at similar rates. Many hotels and motels also have their own free shuttles, while both Gray Line (tel 1-800/256-8991) and Twin Hearts Express (tel 1-800/654-9456) send regular shuttle vans on the 70-minute drive north to Santa Fe, costing around $25.

The modern Greyhound/TNM&O bus terminal, 300 Second St SW, is located in an otherwise deserted area, five easy minutes' walk south of downtown. It's used by long-distance eastwest services, as well as four daily buses up to Santa Fe ($10) and Taos ($22), and has good-sized left-luggage lockers. Amtrak trains call in at a small temporary station immediately behind, at 214 First St.

Maps and free listings magazines are available from the tourist office down town in the Galeria mall, 20 First Plaza at Second and Tijeras (MonFri 8am5pm; tel 505/842-9918 or 1-800/284-2282, www.abqcvb.org ). Further information kiosks can be found in the Plaza Don Luis on Romero NW in Old Town (daily: AprilOct 9am5pm; NovMarch 9.30am4.30pm), and at the airport (SunFri 9.30am8pm, Sat 9.30am4pm).