A taxi downtown from Chattanooga's airport (tel 423/855-2200), three miles east, costs around $12. Greyhound connections with Nashville, Knoxville and Atlanta arrive on Broad Street downtown. The visitor center , adjacent to the Tennessee Aquarium (daily 8.30am5.30pm; tel 423/756-8687 or 1-800/322-3344, www.chattanoogafun.com ), provides the usual range of help, along with a useful guide for travelers with disabilities. The obvious place to eat in Chattanooga is the Choo-Choo complex, where the enclosed but well-lit Gardens Restaurant serves standard meals for around $10; the more romantic Silver Diner serves steaks and seafood in a railroad car permanently parked on the platform behind, and there's also an Espresso Caf (all tel 423/266-5000). For inventive southern cooking in a stylish atmosphere, try the Southside Grill , 1400 Cowart St (tel 423/266-9211). The Big River Grille & Brewing Works , 222 Broad St (tel 423/267-2739), is a cavernous brewpub and restaurant near the Aquarium.