Greyhound arrives at 118 E Washington Ave in North Little Rock. Amtrak enjoys a more central location at Markham and Victory streets. Taxis don't pick up on the street, so call Black and White (tel 501/374-0333); from Greyhound to downtown costs around $7. The visitor center is located in the Convention Center at Markham and Main streets (MonFri 8.30am4.30pm, open on occasional weekends; tel 501/376-4781 or 1-800/844-4781, www.littlerock.com ).

Finding a room downtown should be no problem. As for eating , Trio's-Rivermarket , 225 E Markham St (tel 501/301-8000), has an interesting global/New American menu. Juanita's Cantina , 1300 S Main St (tel 501/372-1228), an atmospheric and imaginative Mexican place, also hosts live bands.