Of all Nashville's country music venues, the main ones to avoid are the ersatz clubs along the much-hyped and tacky downtown Printers Alley . The honky-tonks on Broadway, between Second and Fourth avenues, are more genuine and down-to-earth, though steer clear if you're on your own. Dine-and-dance places like the Nashville Palace offer good-quality mainstream country music (and more crowds), while up-and-coming progressive country bands play smaller venues like the Bluebird Caf . Every June, the Fan Fair is a week-long series of concerts and opportunities to meet the stars (tel 615/770-2040, www.fanfair.com ). Every Thursday evening in summer, the free Dancin' in the District event in Riverfront Park features talent from various genres.
For listings of upcoming gigs and events, check the free weekly Nashville Scene , Thursday's Nashville Banner , or Friday's and Saturday's Tennessean . If you're looking for music other than country, Second Avenue is a popular downtown hangout for both locals and tourists, offering everything from bluegrass to funk and punk, and various interesting venues can be found around Vanderbilt's campus.
Nashville's prime venue for theater, dance and classical music is the Tennessee Performing Arts Center at 505 Deaderick St (tel 615/726-3372). Its symphony orchestra also puts on concerts in Centennial Park , at West End and 25th avenues by Vanderbilt University, from June to August.
Bluebird Caf 4104 Hillsboro Rd tel 615/383-1461. Intimate caf, six miles west of downtown, which has become the place to see the latest honky-tonk and country artists. Early evening entertainment is free, but a cover of $715 is charged for the second show. Reservations recommended.
Bourbon Street Blues & Boogie Bar 220 Printers Alley tel 615/242-5837. Consistently good blues in the otherwise awful downtown Printers Alley.
Ernest Tubb's Record Store Midnight Jamboree Texas Troubadour Theatre, 2414 Music Valley Drive tel 615/889-2474. A live radio show, recorded every Sat from midnight to 1am, next to Tubb's store, in a purpose-built theater that puts out musical and other productions most evenings. Features genuinely promising newcomers as well as major Opry stars.
Exit/In 2208 Elliston Place tel 615/321-4400. Very popular venue for rock, reggae and country, with the occasional big name; serves beer and pizza. TuesSat until late; $520 cover after 9pm.
Nashville Palace 2400 Music Valley Drive tel 615/885-1540. Resident country bands, and Oprey acts on summer Mon; good country food. Cover around $5.
Robert's Western World 416 Broadway tel 615/244-9552. The best of Broadway's country music by far, which also doubles up as a cowboy boot store.