The lack of any great pressure on space has made it possible to preserve ten acres of Portsmouth's original site as Strawbery Banke , Hancock and Marcy streets at I-95 exit 7 (mid-April to Oct daily 10am5pm, Nov to mid-April WedSun guided tours hourly between 10am2pm; $12 adults, $8 children, $28 family; tickets good for two consecutive days). This area began life as the home of wealthy shipbuilders, and was successively the lair of privateers and a red-light district before turning into respectable and, in the 1950s, ultimately decaying suburbia. It was then decided to re-create its former appearance, mainly by clearing away the newer buildings (only two of the houses on display had to be moved here). One or two people still live here, tucked away on the upper floors, but the whole complex serves as a living museum, which you can explore either on a guided tour or on your own, in which case several of the houses have well-informed attendants.
Each building is shown in its most interesting former incarnation, whether that be 1695 or 1955; in the Drisco House , the first you come to, each individual room dates from a different era. The 1766 Pitt Tavern holds most historic significance, having served as a meeting place during the Revolution for patriots and loyalists (it still functions as a masonic lodge, one of the four oldest in the US which explains why you can't go upstairs). Tiny glasses remind you that its clientele drank gin rather than beer (Masonics were usually known for their beer steins). Although you may have to struggle to keep ahead of school groups, Strawbery Banke continues to undertake serious academic research. Traditional crafts are studied and practiced here; in the Dinsmore Shop , an infinitely patient cooper manufactures barrels with the tools and methods of 1800. The Mills Zoldak pottery shop, open year-round, produces attractive low-priced ceramics; you can visit without paying admission.